MushBag™ Grow Guide

Stage 1: Inoculation

You want to be in a nice clean environment, or as clean as you can possibly find. A kitchen surface wiped down with isopropyl alcohol will do the job, make sure to eliminate as much draft as possible from your work space.

1. Take your spore/culture syringe and shake it vigorously to disperse the solution.

2. Quickly remove the protective cap from the syringe, and replace it with the sterile needle. Do not remove the needle cover just yet! 

3. Put on the gloves and face mask which are supplied, sanitise your hands and arms as well as the area around you.

4. Take your grow bag and using your hands break apart the substrate block inside the bag, so that the mix becomes light and fluffy. Break up as many of the chunks as you can. This will allow for faster colonisation.

5. Hold the bag at the top (towards the filter patch and lightly tap the base on a flat surface. This will allow the substrate to collect at the bottom of the bag, but make sure the substrate remains aerated and non-compacted together.

6. Now you’re ready to inoculate. Keeping the bag in an upright position, find the black rubber injection port. Wipe it with the pre injection alcohol swab.

7. Take the syringe and remove the cap. Flame sterilise the needle with a lighter until the tip glows red hot. Give it a few seconds of time to cool before injecting.

8. Pierce the injection port that you have just wiped with alcohol (step 6). Inject around 3-4ml of solution into the substrate then remove the needle.

Stage 2: Colonisation

1. Once inoculated, put your grow bag somewhere dark that is away from direct sunlight, ambient light is fine. A cupboard works perfectly.

2. It is vital that you never open the bag up up before they it is fully colonised and ready to fruit.

3. Keep your grow bag between 21-27°c for the fastest growth. Try not to exceed 27° or you risk the chance of contamination.

4. After about a week, you should start to see the first signs of colonisation. Healthy mycelium should appear first as fluffy white specs on the substrate.

5. Once the bag is around 30% colonised with white mycelium, you want to mix up the substrate block (Stage 1, steps 4 & 5). This will spread break up the mycelium and allow for faster colonisation.

6. For the next 4-8 weeks your mycelium will colonise the grow bag until it has eaten all of the substrate, and you are left with nothing but fully colonised white block. 

Stage 3: Fruiting

2. Use a pair of scissors to cut open the top of the colonised substrate bag. Pour tap water into the bag so that the cake is soaking. Pin the top of the bag with the paper clip and leave for 12 hours.

1. While you wait, prepare the large fruiting tent provided. Place a piece of foil at the bottom of the bag, large enough to allow the fruiting block to sit on top of it.

3. Place the colonised block onto the foil at the bottom of the bag. Make sure to wear sterilised gloves during the procedure. Pin the top of the bag with the paper clip after you are done.

4. Place the fruiting tent in a warm spot between 20-24°c, where they can receive some indirect sunlight. You want to give the substrate at least a few hours of sunlight a day.

5. You want to mist the inner walls of the fruiting tent once a day with the mister bottle provided. Condensation build up within the bag is the trigger for fruiting mushrooms. 

6. After about 10-14 days should see your first pins, which are the first tiny mushroom fruits.

Stage 4: Harvesting

1. Once the veils break and your mushroom caps start to flatten out, they are ready for harvest. You can either use scissors or a scalpel to cut the mushrooms off the cake.

2. After harvesting the first flush give the substrate block a good misting, and repeat Stage 3, steps 5 & 6.

3. Keep repeating until the substrate no longer produces fruits, or they it gets contaminated and you have to throw them.

Improving Your Grow: Tips and Tricks

  • Always try to be as sterile as possible, you can never take sterility too far. You don’t want to put all this time, effort and money in only to get a contamination that ruins your grow.

  • After you have misted the inside of the fruiting tent, put the grow pots back in. Then lightly fan the inside of the fruiting tent with a book, or something similar.

  • If you want to give your mushrooms some more fresh air, you can leave the bag slightly open for a few hours each day. Make sure to close it back up again by folding the top over loosely.

  • As cakes get older sitting in the fruiting tent, they are more likely to contaminate, so if you see any signs of contamination in one of your cakes. Immediately throw it far away to avoid contaminating the rest. To also avoid contaminating the rest of your cakes, you can clean out the fruiting tent and rinse off the cakes as well, washing off any of those mould spores which could have been spread around.                                                                                                                                                                                                       
  • You can increase your yield by taking your cake out of the container,  you then want to soak these cakes in a large bowl of water it for 12 hours. You want to prepare your fruiting tent by putting the perlite at the bottom of the bag, and then placing small squares of tin foil on top. After your cakes have been soaking for 12 hours, rinse them off and place them on top of the foil. Proceed to fruit your cakes as normal by fanning and misting.
  • If you are using a heating matt, be aware that it can cause stalling. Because the uneven heating of the matt, it warms up and dries out the bottom layer of your substrate. This is what can cause it to stall. So you might want to turn your heating matt off every now and then to try to prevent this. If you are using one of our incubators then you will be fine to keep it at optimal temperatures at all times, as the incubator heats the entire area evenly, which maintains a balanced and stable heating environment. Just make sure the temperatures do not exceed 27° when using our incubators, as they can get very warm.

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